Moncler’s masterclass in brand rejuvenation Moncler如何恢復品牌活力

分享者/ 阮宣皓 July 1, 2011 原文網址: Link



在英國時報接受專訪的Moncler執行長Remo Ruffiniu有著迷人的魅力。在2002年他接手低迷已久的滑雪夾克製造品牌並且為他注入活力。此公司最近把他45%的股份以四億一千八百萬歐元賣給一家私人財團,這使得這家公司的市值被估計為淨十二億歐元。



法國的登山客和滑雪者都使用這個品牌。1968年在Grenoble的冬季奧運中,Moncler被指定為法國國家高山滑雪隊的奧運指定服。滑雪名人包括Brigitte Bardot 和Jackie Kennedy都是此品牌愛好者。








流行是少數形象建立者的延伸品(指產品銷售額不多,但對形象有益)有所作用的市場。PR buzz利用形象延伸品的幫助建立了知名度以及讓品牌保持新鮮和尖端。Moncler利用兩個高端的流行線來幫助形象建立:Thom Browne為男性設計的Gamme Bleu和Giambattista Valli為女性設計的Gamme Rouge,還有嘻哈大師Pharrell Williams(在Ruffini右側)所設計的限量版本來造成風潮。



Fascinating interview in The Times with Remo Ruffini, CEO of Moncler. He took over the sleepy ski jacket maker in 2002 and rejuvenated it, recently selling 45% to a private equity group for €418 million, valuing the company at a cool €1.2 billion.

Here are a few insights on Ruffini’s rejuvenation of Moncler.

Build on brand truths

When Ruffini looked for a brand to buy he was after “A small brand name but one with a long history”, as he said in the article. And Moncler fitted the bill nicely. The brand was born in the French Alps in 1952, initially making quilted sleeping bags but soon moving into the quilted goose-down jackets we know today.

French mountaineers and skiers adopted the brand. And when the 1968 Winter Olympics came to Grenoble in 1968 Moncler supplied the French downhill skiing team. Celebrity skiers including Brigitte Bardot and Jackie Kennedy followed.

Grow from an iconic core product

Like many successful brands, Moncler fame flows from an iconic core product. Burberry is based on the trench coats, Tod’s on loafers, Timberland on boots and Moncler on ski jackets. And so far the brand has focused on this core product and avoided the temptation to over stretch the brand.

Use distribution as a brand builder

When Ruffini took over the brand he had a limited budget. He chose to start the rejuvenation by re-establishing the kudos and credentials of the brand by selling it on the slopes in upscale resorts:“It is important to keep the roots. So when I started to open stores it was in the ski resorts: Verbier for the English, St Moritz for Americans and Russians.” 

Product passion

Image is of course key in fashion. But people also want product quality if they are going to keep buying at a premium price. And this means a leader with a hands-on approach to product like Ruffini, who says in the interview: “I want to develop the best product I can in the world. I want to buy my own fabrics in Japan, I want to choose my best feather in Poland or in France, I want to choose the best zipper made in Switzerland.”

Extend the core

Fashion is one of the few markets where “image builder” extensions (small sales, but good for image) make sense. The PR buzz created by such extensions helps build awareness and aspiration and keeps the brand fresh and cutting edge. Moncler use this approach with two high-end fashion lines: Gamme Bleu designed for men by Thom Browne and Gamme Rouge for women designed by Giambattista Valli. And a limited edition line created by hip-hop celeb Pharrell Williams (on the right with Ruffini) created more buzz.

In conclusion, Moncler is a great example of rejuvenating a brand by uncovering brand truths, updating and refreshing them through careful innovation on the core business.